Duck and Porcini Ragu
Something different...
by Erin Henderson
Serendipity is a marvellous thing.
Not long ago, I found myself with a pound of ground duck on my hands. Having just returned from a fall trip to France, where markets were brimming with wild mushrooms – cheery orange-yellow chanterelles, moody black trumpets, dead-ringer-for-the-real-thing beef tongue, and fresh porcini so firm and fat it made me blush – my inspiration drifted to the misty, damp mornings in Champagne and Strasbourg, where market stalls set up in the town square and the locals (and I) picked up what would become dinner.
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With this European inspiration still coursing through my Canadian veins, I thought earthy porcini would be a lovely companion to the equally rustic duck.
Duck ragu is often made with orange and even cinnamon. I'm not generally a fan of mixing sweet and savoury – there are a few exceptions, like this excellent red salad – but usually I like to keep each in its own lane.
Instead, I keep this ragu decidedly savoury, celebrating the grounding, country flavours of fall: porcini and their soaking liquid, a splash of red wine, earthy oregano, and, of course, the duck, for a welcoming to warm the chilly nights.
Duck and Porcini Ragu
This recipe is earthy and rich and warming and hearty... all the things I love about cooking when the weather begins to turn. It's not yet snapping cold, but the evenings teases at it. A chill spikes the wood-smoke scented air.
Makes: 1 litre
Chef level: moderate
Special Equipment: cheesecloth or paper coffee filter
Ingredients:
- ½ oz dried porcini mushrooms
- 1lb ground duck
- 2 Tbsp duck fat (or olive oil if you don't have it)
- ½ cup celery rib, finely diced
- ½ cup carrot, finely diced
- ½ cup onion finely diced
- Kosher salt, to taste
- 2 Tbsp tomato paste
- 1½ Tbsp fennel seeds
- 1 Tbsp oregano
- 1 tsp chili flakes
- 6 cups mushroom soaking water, divided
- 2 cups fruity red wine, such as Gamay
- 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar, optional
How to Make It:
- Soak the porcini in tap water (no need to make it hot water) until soft, about 30 minutes. When the mushrooms are soft, carefully scoop them from the water, being careful not to disturb any grit that's fallen to the bottom, and finely chop.
- Gently scoop the soaking liquid from the bowl through a cheesecloth-lined (or coffee filter) sieve into a clean bowl.
- Meanwhile, warm the duck fat in a large sauce pot over medium/medium-low heat. Add celery, carrot, and onion, stirring to combine. Season lightly with salt and allow to cook until the vegetables are soft, but not browned, about 5 minutes. (If the heat is too ferocious, turn it down, you want a gentle cook, not a searing fry.)
- Add the mushrooms and cook for another minute.
- Add the duck, breaking up with a spoon and cook for about 5 minutes until most of the rawness is out of the meat.
- Add the tomato paste and cook for another 5 minutes or so until the tomato paste darkens a little in colour.
- Add in the fennel, oregano, chili flakes, and a little bit more salt, stirring the spices through.
- Pour in pour in the red wine, scraping up anything that's stuck to the bottom, and add about 4 cups of the strained mushroom liquid.
- Turn this up to a boil and reduce by half. Turn the heat to medium-low allowing a gentle simmer to cook the sauce gently for about an hour.
- Check on this occasionally, if the sauce is drying out, add in a scoop of the reserved mushroom liquid. Taste occasionally. If it's bland add in a little salt. Don't go crazy – as the sauce reduces, flavours intensify and it can quickly become too salty. It's always easier to add instead of taking away.
- After an hour, taste again. Add a bit more mushroom liquid if required, adjust for salt. If the sauce needs a bit of brightening (I generally find it does), add in a little balsamic, cook for a minute and taste again. Keep doing this until it tastes good to you.
- Serve with pappardelle or gnocchi.
Wine Pairing
This sauce is earthy in flavour thanks to the mushrooms, duck, and spices. There's a satisfying richness to it, so reach for a wine that can stand up to the texture, while also complimenting the flavour. Red wine such as Pinot Noir, Côtes du Rhône, or Crianza-level Spanish Rioja all have flavours of bright red fruit to compliment the earthy sauce, and the snappy acidity to lift the richness of the ragu.
