Wines for July
The height – and heat – of summer.
by Erin Henderson
Summer eating and drinking invites the easiest and laziest of dinner preparations. Fruits and vegetables celebrated as close to naked as possible. Maybe a light grill, or a quick boil, a drizzle of olive oil or a bath in butter. Perhaps a casual pairing with one or two other ingredients: sweet fruits with salty meats, or crunchy vegetables smeared with a creamy pesto... but it's too hot too think too much about it.
Throw some wine bottles on ice, open the shade umbrella and feast on platters of everything in season.
Apricots + Prosecco
Resist the temptation to buy these any earlier than July – at least in Ontario. I fell for it once in mid-June, a basket of cute orangey balls, delicate with baby fuzz. You know what they say about judging a book by its cover? The same can be said about an apricot and its peel. The inside flesh was hard, tasteless, and sour. A total letdown.
But once apricots come into season, they're almost euphoric with sweetness; fragrant and fresh. My sister makes gallons of apricot jam, but if you don't fancy yourself a jammer, you can always opt for sweet and savoury ideas, like in a salad with prosciutto, chevre and arugula.
Prosecco, the fruity, Italian bubby with just a wink of residual sugar is a great option for everything from simple apricots on their own, to a custardy tart, to savoury infusions. The stone fruit flavours in the wine mirror the apricot, while the gentle acidity helps mop up creams and fats.
Cherries + Beaujolais
Cobblers and clafoutis and crumbles, oh my! Cherries are having a bit of a darling moment as everyone is showcasing their stand-alone beauty serving them unadorned, on a bed of ice.
I also like to pickle them and add to a cheeseboard.
A Village-level Beauj, which is made from the Gamay grape, is juicy and fruity with low, nearly no, tannins and a cheery acidity. Its gentle nature will work with the sweet fruit, mirroring the flavour, no matter if it's used in sauces with pork or duck, pickled as noted above, or simply served as nature intended.
Try This Recipe: How to Pickle Anything
Garlic Scapes + Vermentino
The twisty, twirly green shoots that sprout from garlic bulbs are only available for a short time, so get them while the getting is good. They can be nearly nasal-clearing hot with their perfumed pungency, so it's best to eat them either grilled, pickled or preserved. Of course, pesto is always the easy option.
Vermentino, a grassy, high-acid white wine that's grown around the Mediterranean in Italy (and also as Rolle in Provence, France), has the chops to stand up to garlic scapes, helping tone down the strong flavours of the vegetable.
Try This Recipe: Garlic Scape Pesto
Peppers + Cabernet Franc
Bell peppers have an organic compound called pyrazine.
Some wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, also have the pyrazine compound, which is why some tasters will describe these wines as having a bell pepper flavour, in smaller or larger quantities.
I happen to like wines that have a tiny bit of that savoury vegetal note, but I suppose that's neither here nor there.
Likely you are not chomping on a raw pepper and chasing it with a wine. Maybe roasted peppers make up part of your antipasti board, or you're enjoying them stuffed with rice and beef, or, one of my favourite ways in summer, as a salad with feta and basil and balsamic dressing.
All of these preparations would work nicely with a wine that has the pyrazine compound. I think a lighter-styled Cabernet Franc, say one from the Loire, that has low tannin and juicy fruit alongside the herbal note would be a nice match.
Sweet Peas + Chardonnay
The excitement I get when I see the first pea pods hit the market is nearly embarassing. Sure, you can lean on frozen peas throughout the year, and I do, but there is something so meditative about shelling peas yourself. It always takes me longer than necessary as I have one-for-you-one-for me approach with the collection bowl.
Mixed into pasta with tiny veal meatballs, mashed with potatoes for a samosa stuffing, served as a side with mint and parmesan ... the possibilities are endless. One seasonal obsession for me is to make a thick pea purée with garlic, lemon and chillies, and spread it on crostini for cocktail hour.
Peas, when treated right, have a buttery texture and a slightly sweet flavour. Paired with a creamy Chardonnay this is a lovely match.
Try This Recipe: Sweet Pea Bruschetta