Sautéed Broccoli Rabe
Don't fear the bitter.
by Erin Henderson
Yes, you could use baby broccoli in place of rabe. But I don't recommend it.
Broccoli rabe, which is also known as rapini, looks like broccoli, but is a totally different vegetable, and is closer to turnip for its bitter taste.
And while eaters may retreat from it because of its pungency, that's what makes it work with so many rich foods. The bitterness cuts through fatty meats and creamy sauces to give a bit of tension and interest to the plate. So, yes, eating a raw stalk of rapini might be a tad off putting, once it's sautéed to softness and flavoured with garlic, olive oil, and salt, that bitter notes mellows (doesn't disappear) and balances the meal.
Sautéed Broccoli Rabe
This is my rinse-and-repeat method for cooking most greens. Kale, Swiss chard, spinach... they all get this quick cooking system when I want a super flavourful side quickly. If you don't have miso, you could use anchovy paste as is more common, but I find oily anchovy can easily dominate even the bitterness of the rapini, so I stay away from it.
Makes: roughly 4 cups
Chef level: easy
Ingredients:
- ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 3 Tbsp garlic, minced
- 1 cayenne pepper, thinly sliced
- 2 Tbsp white miso
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 1 bunch cleaned rapini (about 1pound), tough ends trimmed
- Salt to taste
- ¼ cup water
- Splash red wine vinegar
- Salt to taste
How to Make It:
- Add the olive oil and garlic to in a high sided pan with a lid, set over med-low heat.
- When the garlic is fragrant, and a slightly pale yellow, add the cayene pepper and stir for about a minute.
- Melt in the miso and pour in the white wine.
- Immediately add the broccoli rabe to the pan, a light sprinkle of salt and toss to coat.
- Pour in the water, it should sizzle up and steam. Immediately cover with a lid and cook for about 3 minutes. check and see if the thick stems are tender. If not, add a splash more water (if necessary), and cover again cooking for another 2-3 minutes.
- Cook until the stems are tender but still have bite – you don't want mushy stems.
- Finish with a splash of vinegar, and more salt, if needed.
Wine Pairing
Chances are very good you won't be eating this on its own... however, I've been known to. As quick lunch with some white beans, it's delicious, filling, and healthy. But I'm generally not drinking wine with quick lunches. When did I become such a square?
I digress.
You're likely not pairing to the broccoli rabe exactly, but, it's helpful to know good wine pairings for bitter flavours. Tannins just exacerbate the bitterness, so red wine's out. Anything too neutral or lean will just taste flat and overly bitter, so goodbye Chablis, Pinot Grigio, and company. What you need is a wine with good fruit and acidity, and even a wink of sweetness. Vouvray from Loire, Riesling from Germany, and Albriño from Spain are all good options.
