Salsa Macha
It's like a Mexican chili crisp
by Erin Henderson
There’s an awful lot of buzz going on in the food world – again; still – about recipe stealing and accreditation. As a (former) journalist, I find the whole topic fascinating.
I love this line written in The Husbands by Holly Gramazio. I’m paraphrasing, but it goes something like, “I’m sick of these husbands bragging about their unique spin on Bolognese because they throw in an anchovy or a tablespoon of balsamic or whatever.”
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The line made me smirk because I agree: while you can’t trademark a recipe, you also can’t throw rosemary-scented croutons into a Caesar salad and trumpet that it’s somehow your own invention.
But I also think there is zero shame in crediting a recipe. Nigella Lawson does this magnanimously on her Instagram, regularly featuring recipes from other chef's cookbooks. It shows a certain security with her own cooking and culinary chops, that she needn't keep her cards so close to her vest and try to pass off someone else's creations as her own.
This is maybe where my journo training kicks in. Journalism is built on sourcing everyone and everything. Literally not one sentence comes out of a reporter’s mouth (or pen) that is not attributed to another person, place, or thing.
Also, the world is big and has been around for a very long time. Probably every recipe conceivable has already been done.
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So, it is without shame that I bring you today’s recipe, a fantastic Mexican macha which (likely) hails from the Veracruz region, but dates back to the pre-Hispanic Indigenous cultures. Like any old recipe that's now synonymous with a place, there are as many ways to make it as there are people making it. This recipe borrows heavily from the excellent cookbook Getaway by chef Renee Erickson, with a few ideas from the Mexican cooking course I took a few years ago.
Try it in this dinner party menu, a celebration of warm days, cool nights, and a serve-yourself, breezy simplicity.
Apéro
- Pitcher margs
- Tortilla chips and various salsas
Dinner
- Fresh tacos (served with same salsas)
- Rice
- Hand-pressed, corn tortillas
- A lovely glass of chilled rosé is just the ticket
Mexican Macha
This is like a Mexican version of chili crisp. It’s spicy and crunchy and tangy and I love it. Not that this happens to me, but it also lasts forever in the fridge because the oil rises to the top and creates a seal.
Makes: about 1 litre
Chef level: easy +
Special equipment: blender
Ingredients:
- 4-5 large cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
- 1½ cups extra virgin olive oil
- 4-5 garlic cloves, crushed and minced
- 1 cup salted, roasted, skinless peanuts
- 5 dried guajillo peppers, stemmed and seeded
- 4 dried chipotle peppers, stemmed and seeded
- ¼ cup lime juice
- 1 tsp salt, or to taste
- 2 Tbsp sesame seeds
How to Make It:
- In a sauce pan set over med-low heat bring a few tablespoons of oil to warm. Add sliced garlic and gently toast into chips, removing from oil when they are golden brown. Set aside on paper towels.
- Add the remaining oil to the pot. Add the crushed garlic to the hot oil cooking for about a minute until fragrant.
- Add the peanuts, stirring constantly, and cook for another 30 seconds then add the whole chilis, cooking for about 5 minutes to soften, stirring frequently.
- Stir well, remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool, about an hour, stirring occasionally.
- When the mixture has cooled completely, add to a blender, blitzing to a textured purée (you still want small bits of chilies and peanuts.) You may have to work in batches.
- Add the sesame seeds, and test for seasoning.
- Add in the salt and lime juice to your liking, pulse once or twice to quickly incorporate, and refrigerate until ready to use.
- Serve with toasted garlic chips on top.
