Rosé Roundup
Good Rosé for Under $20
by Erin Henderson
Hot take: you really don't need to spend a bundle on a bottle of rosé.
I mean, you can if you want to, but I haven't tasted much of a difference between the $30 celebrity stuff and the $15 bottle from Spain.
Generally, pink wine tastes like red berries. Maybe some melon, or perhaps even orange, and sometimes a bit of floral notes. Wine reviewers, when desperate to say something other than strawberry and cherry, might lean on white cherry as a real differentiator, or perhaps canteloupe instead of watermelon (really using the old noodle there, Robbie!), but usually, rosé tastes like a mix of red berries and some juicy fruit.
And that's why wine drinkers like it.
This admission will probably get my sommelier card revoked, but I've reached a stage in life where I just don't care. (It's also possible this is the hormonal rage of perimenopause speaking.)
Anyway, my deciding factor when tasting a rosé is – wait for it – does it taste good?
Revolutionary, right?
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Perhaps this public rant is because I'm still feeling the sting of a rosé letdown.
I was teaching a class on rosé the other night; as you might expect we tasted through a couple of samples. One bottle, a very, very popular rosé that is always on the shelves of Ontario's wine and spirit store, the LCBO, was simply awful. And, having tasted it with every rosé class I teach, I can honestly say it's been bad for a number of years.
This wine is made by a terrific winery I've had the pleasure of visiting, and very much enjoyed my time there, as well as most of the wines in the portfolio. So it does hurt my heart to admit this particular rosé is simply not good. Bitter, sour, and tasteless. Well, it tastes like the smell of a hockey arena. (Not the locker rooms, don't be gross, but it tastes like the smell of the ice. Think about it. You know what I mean. The wine tastes like how dry ice smells.)
I think people drink it because it's popular, so therefore a safe choice. But if they were honest with themselves, they would realize the wine is flavourless. So what's the point?
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Rosé is still big wave surfing the tsunami of popularity that erupted about a decade ago. No complaints here. I've been a fan of rosé for a long time and still remember the sad days when a barely half-decent selection of pink wine was available. And even that was only for a month and a half during the height of summer; I would fill my trunk like a squirrel storing nuts for the winter. Now, thanks to consumer demand, a good selection of rosé is widely available all year in Ontario.
But that same fever pitch has meant a lot of wineries racing to answer the call, and flood shelves with tasteless, pink wine. Sure, it's the delicately alluring shade of Baby Aspirin, but it tastes like sour water, so...
So that's my plea. Which arguably works for whites and reds, as well. Take a moment to really taste what you're drinking and decide if it has a flavour you enjoy.
This list is highly Ontario-centric for availability, as I live in Toronto, so apologies for the exclusivity. I know many of you read from across Canada and the world, so I usually try to avoid region-specific topics, but today I'm making an exception. But I did take a very quick glance around the internet and it looks like these international wines have good representation in many markets around the globe, and hopefully that includes yours.
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My Picks for Good Rosé Under $20
Caruso & Minini Frappo Frappato Rosé, Sicily, Italy $19 – This might just be my preferred pink of summer. Which is slightly annoying as it's just a hair under $20. Regardless this chic bottle hits every point: deliciously fresh and crisp wine made from Etna's famed Frappato grape, decently priced, and beautifully marketed with a summer-ready pink flamingo gracing the lable; a lovely design note for seasonal tablescapes.
Protea Rosé, Western Cape, South Africa $15 – Easily spotted in its gorgeous clear bottle etched with white Protea flowers, the national flower of South Africa. A medium-bodied pink wine, this is a field blend of French grapes, with 70% going to Cinsault. In true South African honesty, the website reads, "it's no will o' the wisp: it has substance." They're not wrong.
Gérard Bertrand Gris Blanc Organic Rosé, Languedoc, France $17 – This is made entirely from Grenache, using the direct press menthod, which is why it's so pale. Direct press simply squeezes the clear juice from the dark-skinned grape, leaving just the barest kiss of colour. Despite the anemic shade, it's highly flavourful with juicy red fruits.
Born Rosé "Rambla," Spain $17 – A multi-award-winning pink, this hails from a rosé-only winery led by an all-female team of winemakers in Barcelona. A blend of Grenache and Tempranillo, it's a satisfying sipper.
Ogier Rosé Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône, France $14 – Sometimes I think the OG's are unfairly overlooked in favour of the newer, shinier toys. Ogier, which has a few estates across the Rhône (I had the great pleasure of visiting the winery in Chateauneuf-du-Pape during a 40°C heat wave), has had a rosé on shelves since the beginning. Pouring more of a salmon pink-orange colour, it's a typical Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault for a mid-weight wine with deep flavour.
Terres De Saint Louis Rose Varois En Provence, France $16 – Easy drinking, fun, and reliable. Exactly what a rosé should be. A heard one critic complain this wine lacks complexity, but that's a bit like complaining The Hangover isn't thoughtful cinema. We don't judge a Great White shark by its ability to ride a bike.
Ricasoli "Albia" Tuscany, Italy $19 – Coming in just under the $20 mark, this is a blend of Sangiovese, the main red grape of Tuscany that goes into Chianti, and Merlot. It comes through every summer to Ontario, only enough for a few weeks, and when I see it I make a point of picking up a few bottles.
Baglietti No.1 Organic Rosé, Italy $16 – I'm not going to lie, I nearly passed on this flashy bottle when I could only find the general country designation of Italy (generally not a vote of optimism in my books) and neither could find the grapes from which this pale pink is made. But curiosity got the better of me, and I lucked out. The wine is juicy, fresh, loaded with red berry flavour. Exactly what I want and need in a Southern Ontario heat wave with 96% humidity.
Great Food Pairings for Rosé
As you may have seen on our Instagram, generally speaking I think the foods of southeast Asia are fantastic for rosé. From pad thai to banh mi to green curries, these flavour-loaded, sweet-and-spicy cuisines work beautifully for juicy, fruity pinks.
For the dry, delicate styles like those of Provence, seafood and fish are classics. Think moules marinère or salad Niçoise. Picnic fare like fried chicken sandwiches and creamy potato salad also work well. And, as mentioned, foods with loads of flavourful herbs like Vietnamese chicken salad or salsa verde work well with light rosé.
For robust pinks, like those of Tavel, which are nearly pale red, baked ham and roast chicken have the comparable weight of this wine. Gently smoked salmon also has gravitas to pair well with richer rosé. Even a lean beef, such as filet mignon is a good pairing.
For rosé with a touch of sweetness, spicy foods work well. Think southern US barbecue that has a touch of heat and a gentle sweetness from the sauces made with molasses and ketchup. Fiery curries also pair well, as does Mexican foods that layer in the hot pepper.
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