A Slightly Rogue Vichyssoise
Classic, with a teensy-weensy twist.
By Erin Henderson
Classic vichyssoise is a culinary marvel: it’s hedonistically delicious, but unlike other French dishes that require hours of cooking with special techniques and equipment, vichyssoise is shockingly simple to make with just a handful of ingredients.
You may also like: Nearly Classic Boeuf Bourguignon
Butter and cream, leeks and potatoes, butter, stock, salt, white pepper. And butter. But that’s it.
The internet is rife with a zillion recipes on the traditional version from Anthony Bourdain to Julia Child. Rest assured, these will all give you the classic pale, white-green chilled soup of your buttery dreams.
My version doesn’t stray too far from the original but does add a little bit of garlic, because I just can't resist, a splash of white wine and some lemon zest to liven up the creamy richness, and I use black pepper instead of the French-preferred white. Truth be told, I find white pepper smells like an animal cage, and I rather like the flecks of black against the pastel puree.
Vichyssoise
For me, Vichyssoise is a near-perfect spring offering. It can be dressed up as a starter for Easter dinner, or downsized for casual weekend brunches with a loaf of sourdough and crisp glass of white wine.
Makes: about 2 ½ litres
Chef level: Easy
Special equipment: high speed blender
Ingredients:
- 6 Tbsp butter
- 3 large leeks, white and light green part only, washed well and sliced (about 8 cups)
- 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
- 1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 2 russet potatoes, peeled and chopped (about 4 cups)
- Zest of one lemon
- 6 cups chicken stock
- 350ml heavy cream
- Crème fraiche or Greek yogurt; chives and/or dill for garnish
How to Make It:
- In a large soup pot set over medium/med-low heat, melt the butter.
- When frothy, add the leeks and garlic, cooking until the leeks are soft, but still pale, about 6 minutes.
- Add the wine and gently season with salt and pepper, cooking for another minute or two.
- Add the potatoes and chicken stock, bring to a gentle boil, and then reduce the heat to low, until the potatoes are soft, about 30 minutes.
- Remove the soup from the heat and allow to cool slightly for about 15 minutes.
- Add the lemon zest and stir into the soup. Adjust for salt and pepper, if necessary.
- Ladle the soup in batches into a blender. Leave the centre out of the lid so steam can escape (hot liquid can blow the lid off a blender), but lightly cover the hole with a dish towel so it doesn't spray everywhere.
- Blitz the mixture until very smooth, about a minute, and pour into a clean bowl.
- Repeat with the remaining soup.
- When it’s all pureed, place in the fridge to chill.
- Just before serving, pour in the cream.
- Garnish with a dollop of crème fraiche or Greek yogurt and a mix of chives and dill.
Wine Pairing:
Vichyssoise is a dish that can be described as light but rich, with a delicate flavour base that hints at the verdant leek, but isn't overpowered by it, while the cream and potatoes make for a smooth and hearty texture.
Here, I want a wine with silky texture that's at least medium bodied to stand up to the density of the soup. I also want a wine with some savoury flavours to echo the verdant notes of the leek, and a good amount of acidity to bring some lift to the vichyssoise.
A dry Vouvray (Chenin Blanc) from France's Loire region, a northern Rhône white made from the Marsanne/Roussane grapes, Austrian Grüner Veltliner, or an Italian Verdicchio all have the weight, texture, and flavour profile to pair well.