Carrots with Pistachio Pesto, Pomegranate and Lemony Yogurt
Add colour and light to the rich winter table.
by Erin Henderson
They say necessity is the mother of all invention.
And it's certainly the case with this recipe. I had first had this carrot assemblage at the Toronto stalwart, Terroni, an Italian restaurant that is basically an institution in this city.
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I asked for the recipe, but as often happens in restaurants, the instructions came back in vague generalities. Carrots! pesto! pomegranate!, the server triumphantly crowed returning from the kitchen, victoriously waving a scrap piece of paper scrawled with ink and oil splatters. Of course, all of this was outlined on the menu, and plainly visible on the plate. I wanted to know measurements and hidden spices and methods. No such luck.
With no other recourse than rolling up the sleeves on my chef's whites (not really, but I like the imagery), I set to work, figuring out what could be a reasonable replica of this lovely Terroni lunch. I'm pretty happy with the results.
Carrots with Pistachio Pesto, Pomegranate, and Lemony Yogurt
As with all my recipes, this allows for a bit of flexibility.
Use as many carrots as you feel are necessary; depending on size, I generally estimate about five per person as a side dish.
Labneh is a Middle Eastern, strained yogurt that is similar to Greek yogurt, but even thicker – almost the density of cream cheese. It's worth seeking out, but if you can't find it, Greek yogurt will do.
I also prefer to use garlic confit in my pesto. The sweeter, smoother flavour works better for me than the punchy bite of raw garlic that's traditionally used. You, of course, can use your best judgement as to your own preferences.
Finally, while pine nuts are commonplace in basil pesto, I really like how the sweet and earthy pistachio works. In fact, I may adjust all my pesto recipes to pistachio, moving forward.
Makes: 2-4 side serving, depending on appetite
Chef level: easy
Special equipment: rasp for zesting lemon, small blender/food processor (such as a Nutribullet)
Ingredients:
- Thin, fresh carrots, peeled and thick ones cut in half lengthwise (as many as you would like)
- Handful fresh pomegranate arils
- 3-4 cups fresh basil
- 1 cup pistachios, toasted and roughly chopped
- 3 fat cloves, confit garlic
- 1 Tbsp garlic oil
- ½ cup Parmesan
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 1 cup Labneh or Greek yogurt
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 1 Tbsp lemon juice
Make the Pesto:
- Set up a small saucepan of water to boil.
- While waiting, fill a bowl with cold water and ice
- When water is boiling add basil leaves and blanch for no more than 30 seconds.
- Remove basil from boiling water and immediately plunge into the ice bath to shock the basil and keep its bright green colour (otherwise it goes dull brown)
- In a dry pan set over med-low heat, toast the pistachios. Remove from heat, allow to nuts to cool, then chop.
- Into a food processor, add the Parmesan and pistachios and pulse 3 or 4 times to create a rough, pebble-like texture.
- Add the garlic confit, oil, and basil leaves.
- Pulse a few times (you will likely have to pause the machine and scrape down the sides) until it is a chunky, thick paste.
- Taste for seasoning (I never need to add extra salt) and transfer to a clean container with a tight-fitting lid and store in the fridge until needed (this can last up to a week).
Make the Yogurt Sauce
- In a bowl add the Labneh or Greek yogurt.
- Sprinkle with salt and a few grinds of black pepper.
- Add all the lemon zest and lemon juice, a little at a time to get the consistency and flavour you want, and stir to incorporate.
- Check for seasoning, and store in the fridge until ready to use (this will last up to a week.)
Make the Carrots
- Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When hot, add carrots in a single layer, season lightly with salt and pepper.
- Allow carrots to colour slightly on one side, then flip to gain a bit of colour on the other side. About 2-3 minutes per side until desired colour is formed.
- Set carrots aside to cool (carrots should still be somewhat crunchy when removed from heat.)
Assemble
- On a rimmed serving platter, smear the yogurt sauce across the bottom.
- Place a dollop of the pesto into the centre and swirl it outwards in generous streaks.
- Lay the cooled carrots across the sauce.
- Scatter remaining pistachios and pomegranate seeds over the top.
- Serve at room temperature.
Wine Pairing
Grüner Veltliner, the white wine of Austria, is my pick. Grüner has earthy and herbal flavours with medium-body and a bright, acidic lift.
The sweet, vegetale note of the carrots, along with the intensly fragrant and herbaceous flavour of the pesto will match that of the wine, while the pinpoint acidity in the Grüner will slice through the rich yogurt sauce and mop up the subtle oil of the pesto.