My Perfect Christmas Wines
I’ll show you mine if you show me yours.
By Erin Henderson
This is not a list of perfect wines for Christmas. This is not even a “best wines for the holidays” guide.
Perhaps this is more of dirty confessional. I risk losing face and any modicum of a decent reputation I’ve been able to patch together with the following admission, so you may want to lean in close:
The perfect wine is the wine that’s perfect for you.
Still, I, like many others in my profession, regularly field questions of favourites and bests. As I’ve said many times before, that is a highly subjective category. My go-to bottle will likely be different than yours. Not better or worse, but different to be sure.
However, you’ve asked, so I’ll answer. And because it’s Christmas, I’m also sharing brand names.
For the holidays – and I am someone who whole heartedly celebrates Christmas – I lean towards light and bright reds; white wines that are both crisp and refreshing (generally served for apéro and cocktail hours), and rich (generally served with meals), and, of course, sparkling wines (for both solo sipping and to be made into cocktails.)
I have people over all year long, but of course there is an uptick this season with larger gatherings than usual and a few extra parties than what’s normally scheduled.
I like to always have a case or two on hand. That may be extravagant for you, but as I said, I’m sharing what I like to do, and, that may be different from your preferences. But to have a fairly large and reliable stock eliminates the stress of running out last minute when I could be focused on tidying up the house, putting the finishing touches on the food, or just relaxing with a cocktail before the real merriment arrives on the doorstep.
I also like to keep what I call my Three Friendlies in mind when hosting: crowd friendly (even if it’s not their favourite, most people will like the wine), food friendly (the wine will go with most of the food on the buffet), and budget friendly (I’m happy to share, but not happy to go into debt to do it. With the volume I serve during December, wine around the $20 mark works well for my tastes and budget. You may like to spend more, in which case, please invite me.)
Alright, without further ado, prepare to be dazzled:
Sparkling Wine
I’m a bubbles all year kind of gal, but naturally, the holidays are when fizz really steps into the spotlight.
If I’m feeling flush (harder and harder these days to do so), and I want to pop the cork on some Champagne, my favourite style is rosé or blanc de noir. This is a style of white sparkling wine that’s made from red grapes (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, typically) but, unlike rosé, without skin contact so the wine stays clear. I find these styles richer, creamier, and more inviting for my palate.
A top favourite of mine is Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé which weighs in at an eye watering $120 CDN (just last year it was $110 and years prior around $100, oh the joys of inflation – and hefty tax); from Ontario, Trius has a gorgeous blancs de noir from the Showcase series for a slightly more affordable $65. I open a bottle or two of these beauties a few times over the season for the really impressive dinners and lunches, typically on Christmas and New Year’s Eve, when I usually have gathering of 10 people or less, so it’s a bit more affordable to do so.
For larger gatherings, and Tuesday night drinking, Crémant, a sparkling wine that’s made the same way a Champagne is made, but from somewhere else in France and with the grapes allocated to that region, is my go-to. Burgundy, where the main grapes are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, just like Champagne, is a particularly good doppelgänger for the real deal but generally comes in at a more demure $25 or less. One of my favourites is Bailly Lapierre Brut Réserve, which is currently about $25 (but when I first discovered it around a decade ago, was $18. Just saying.)
You may also like: What’s the Difference Between Champagne and Sparkling Wine?
White Wine
Whether it be a chic pantsuit, regal coat, or a wine, I think we can all agree winter white is stunning in its elegant simplicity.
While many a wine guru advise crisp whites for summer refreshment, I, in my rebellious Aquarian ways, love bright and fresh white wine as starters to a meal, or with cocktail hour. The racy acidity of these styles mop up the richness of runny cheeses like triple crème and burrata, lighten fried bites like arancini and fritto misto, and pair beautifully with delicate vegetables and seafood. Northern Italian whites really shine in this category, particularly Soave, Vermentino, and Pecorino. Percorino that’s always available in most store in Ontario is Sistina Terre di Chieti which has pleasing notes of lime zest, almond, and sea spray. Ringing in at an incredible $13.50, you really can’t beat the value.
For the roast turkey, cream sauces, and baked hams that headline many dinner tables this time of year, silky whites with a bit of weight fit the bill. I’m in my Chenin Blanc era currently, a white grape from Loire that is made into a range of styles including sweet and sparkling. South Africa also does a top-notch job producing textural wines with inviting complexity. At the time of this writing Waterkloof “Circle of Life” which blends Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon into the Chenin Blanc is on shelves for a respectable $22, and it’s one I’m serving a lot. Should it not be available where you are, Ken Forrester Old Vines Chenin Blanc is always available for $19.
Red Wine
Here’s where we might have to part ways.
While many wine lovers gravitate towards rich reds that are positively erect with tannin and robust structure – wines which are absolutely brilliant options for the braised beef and roasts perfuming your winter kitchens – I shy away from the bold and find solace in the streamlined and fresh reds with snappy acidity and calm tannin.
I talk about Beaujolais way too much, and one day will stop shouting the merits of the Gamay grape, but today is not that day.
Loaded with juicy red fruits like cranberry, red cherry, and pomegranate, supported by spice and earthy flavours, Beaujolais just brings so much to the table. It has an easy-going affinity for almost anything on the menu from roast salmon to grilled tenderloin, French onion soup to coq au vin.
Top tier Cru wines have also crept up in price over the years, but still come in under $25 for bottles from Morgon, Fleurie, Brouilly and the like.
One I’ve purchased on repeat this year has been Cave de Château des Loges “Les 3 Madones” Côte de Brouilly, which is currently available for $22.
You’re next read: Why Gamay Just Might Be the Perfect Wine
