Good Wines for Turkey
by Erin Henderson
We’re going a bit rogue this year for my Thanksgiving Day dinner.
After years of dealing with piles of leftovers, more than we can reasonably handle, we are doing away with a whole bird in favour of just the breast. So, in the name of efficiency, cost, and food waste, we’re scaling back a bit and simultaneously making life easy by roasting a breast and calling it a day.
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There are many ways to cook a turkey from classic roast to Deep South deep fry, but one thing remains constant: turkey is a fairly bland and naturally lean meat (which is why it dries out so easily.) This basic structure is what will dictate your pairing: we need to add some juicy richness to the old bird, or risk choking on the sawdust particles sucking up all the saliva in your mouth.
Think of what you already pair with turkey to give it some pizazz: cranberry sauce, its tart, sweet-and-sour zing brings some energy to the otherwise bland meat; and gravy, its silky fat provides a cushion of richness to moisten the bird.
With that in mind, select wines with juicy, mouth-watering acidity, ripe fruit flavours, and buttery fullness.
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Dry Sparkling Wine
This is a celebration so if you want to bust out the Champers, be my guest.
If you’re not willing to blow the budget on family, other delicious options that pinch a few pennies but don’t compromise on taste include Crémant (a bubbly that’s made in the same style as Champagne but from elsewhere in France) which typically come in under $25, South African sparkling, is always a stunning steal, usually around $20 or less, and Ontario traditional method sparkling wines, which are constantly compared to Champagne, thanks to our similar climates and soils.
Brut (dry) fizz of any kind is not only festive, but that elevated acidity that promotes pin-prick tears of joy, moistens the meat and cleans up the gravy.
Chardonnay
As mentioned above, a buttery, toasty Chard has the style and structure of gravy; its silky body wraps around the turkey and says, “let’s dance.”
In this case, I don’t mind a wine with the heft of noticeable oak. I don’t want to suck on a baseball bat all dinner, but the subtle roasted nut and campfire smoke of quality wood works here. And the pineapple-mango-apricot flavours of oak-aged Chard compliment the turkey, as well.
Rosé
I’m so happy people are getting over the “pink is for summer” thinking.
Rosé, with its upfront red fruit and jovial acidity makes for a terrific food pairing for many dishes from grilled salmon to cheese plates to the Thanksgiving bird.
For turkey, I’d select something of a deeper hue with a bit more avoirdupois over the gossamer pink styles of Provence. The blushing beauties that are almost the colour of pale cranberry juice to have a matching weight to the dense turkey, and the strawberry compote flavours to compliment the white meat.
Tempranillo
A top red grape of Spain, found in areas like Rioja and Ribera del Duero, is an exciting and unexpected match for turkey.
Especially for loyalists to Deep Reds, Rioja Reserva and Gran Reserva, which generally have mid-weight tannin and a solid spine of acidity, offer beautifully sultry notes of earth, spice, and fig flavours for a – dare I say it? –ethereal match for turkey. (Also, Rioja Reservas, which must be aged a minimum of three years, and Gran Reservas a minimum of five, are inexplicably fantastic value.)
Gamay
Oh, my beloved Gamay. It’s such a convivial wine.
The OG grape of Beaujolais, where it’s made in styles that range from the innocent and simplistic Nouveau to the complex and intriguing Cru level, Gamay has found beloved homes in Ontario, Oregon, and other cool climates where it produces ruby red wines with juicy acidity, smooth tannins and upfront red fruit and black pepper spice notes. Think of this wine like the vinous equivalent to cranberry sauce.
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