How to Pair Wine with Spring Vegetables
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"The beautiful spring came; and when nature resumes her loveliness, the human soul is apt to revive also." – Harriet Ann Jacobs
by Erin Henderson
I promise not to get too far ahead of myself, but the beautifully bright days in Toronto have put an extra spring in my step. It amazes me how something as simple as blue sky and a bit of warmth can revive the spirit, giving energy to plan and prosper – the winter weary, cozy hibernation that weighed down the last few months simply forgotten.
A few early days of an unseasonable heat wave brought me to my kitchen in celebration. Armed with early spring produce for a feast of no special occasion other than a celebration of life and lightness, I happily chopped, diced, and minced in the spotlight of sunshine beaming through my windows.
As Seneca once philosophised, luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity. Save the below guide for your next trip to the farmers’ market.
Artichoke, asapagus, fava beans and fiddleheads
These wonderfully herbaceous vegetables are the starter's pistol to warm weather produce. They have a fleetingly short lifespan in Southern Ontario but are heartily celebrated for the few weeks they are here. I, personally, gorge myself on in-season asparagus until I can't take it any longer. But then, just when I've had enough, the season is up. I actually go through a grieving process.
Left on their own, these verdant spring gems are among the toughest to pair, but luckily, we have a few tricks up our sleeve. As discussed in previous blogs, you want to pair the wine to the strongest element on the dish – usually the sauce, spice and seasoning. So let's assume these beauties are mostly unadorned save for some olive oil or butter and salt and pepper.
The Wine
Select a high acid white wine with equally green flavours such as Vinho Verde, Grüner Veltliner, Verdicchio, or Sauvignon Blanc. The naturally occuring herbal note in the wine compliments the vegetable.
Artichoke
This rascal of a vegetable gets a special mention all its own thanks to the unique cynarin it contains. Cynarin is a naturally occurring compound that magnifies sweetness – and makes wines taste flabby and dull. Because of this, artichoke is one of the tougher vegetables to pair, but, not impossible. Wines that will have the best chance are white wines that are bright, fresh, and crisp, with no discernible oak influence.
The Wine
If pairing wine to a raw or near-raw preparation such as an artichoke salad or antipasti, look to wines with a touch of green and a little salinity. Wines like Muscadet, Verdejo, or even a fino Sherry from Spain will work. If the artichokes are fried, like the famous Carciofi alla Giudia, the fried artichokes of Rome's Jewish quarter, work with the rich oil and batter. A silky Grüner Veltliner from Austria, or rich Jura from France both have the weight and flavour to compliment the dish, or, you could create an interesting contrast with a snappy brut sparkling wine to wipe up some of that fat.
Beets, carrots, squash
While these hearty root vegetables typically headline fall cuisine, they actually grow most of the year, save for the hottest months of summer. I really love thinly slicing a mix of raw beets – purple, candy cane and golden – for a crunchy, colourful salad.
The wine:
These rich vegetables are inherently sweet, meaning we need to reach for a wine that is a tad sweeter – or at least gives the impression of sweetness. Think wines with new oak and ripe fruit flavours such as Chardonnay.
Red onion, garlic scapes, radish
These will be the most challenging vegetables to pair, as it’s likely they will be served raw as often as they’re served cooked. Raw, these vegetables have a sharp pungency and spicy heat that can throw off the balance of a wine, so, just as with the root vegetables, you will want to find a wine that has some sweetness to it.
The wine
Light bodied but flavourful wines will help temper the spicy heat of the radish and alliums. Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chenin Blanc or Rosé (especially richer versions such as Tavel or rosés made from powerful grapes like Shiraz) are all good options to consider.
