Where to Drink, Eat, and Sleep in Niagara
A few great places for a terrific time in Niagara.
by Erin Henderson
I repeatedly get requests for itineraries to Ontario wine country.
Which wineries are best? (If there is one perfect answer, I’m all ears). What’s the BEST restaurant? (Again, possibilities are endless.) Where should one stay? (A little easier to narrow down, but not by much.)
Before the lockdown, I wrote an annual travel guide to visiting both Niagara and Prince Edward County. Each yearly book had a number of itineraries, from day to long weekend, with a carefully planned schedule taking the traveller from morning to night.
When wine lovers ask me where they should go, I usually respond by asking about what they like. As limiting as it is, I know there are many people who remain steadfastly loyal to Pinot Grigio, big reds, or sparkling wine. There are those who want to maximize their caloric burn by biking to and fro, while others prefer to eat their way through wine country visiting the latest and greatest restaurants. There's no point in me recommending a steak house if you're a vegan.
When it comes to wine country tours, what you do and how you do it, depends very much on your own desires. It's a choose your own adventure where one visit can be completely different from the next.
With that I mind, and as Canada Day approaches, I thought I would highlight, in no particular order, a few of the restaurants, hotels, and, of course, wineries, I like to visit when spending a day, or two, or three in Niagara.
Wineries
There are about 100 wineries spread across Niagara-on-the-Lake and the Niagara Escarpment. If you didn’t realize Ontario’s largest wine region was divided into two subregions (and 10 sub-appellations!), it’s an easy mistake to make – many people just assume the whole place is Niagara Falls (it’s not.)
The Niagara Peninsula is divided by the city of St Catharines. NOTL is to the east of the Welland Canal, and The Bench, as the Escarpment is colloquially known, is to the west. While the whole area grows somewhere in the range of 40 different wine grapes, Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Pinot Noir are considered top performers. Niagara wineries also make stellar traditional method sparkling and Icewine – and are most famous for it.
It truly pains me that I just don’t have room to list every single winery, as I think each has something notable. But there are other sites for that. In the meantime, here is a list of some wineries that I think are just great.
Honsberger Estate
This is a terrific hidden gem just outside of Jordan, that’s catching on quickly with wine lovers looking for a close-to-the-land kind of experience. Honsberger, the name of the family that has been farming these acres for generations, started growing wine grapes to sell years ago. Realizing the quality, and harnessing that industrious spirit, they started making thier own outstanding Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Riesling, as well as some very stylish sparkling. Honsberger also has a fabulous outside patio that attracts line ups of foodies looking for some great food against the backdrop of the charming countryside.
Bachelder
Thomas Bachelder is easily one of the most skilled winemakers in Canada. He’s a bit of a mad scientist, creating craft Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Gamay from super-specific plots from various Niagara vineyards. Extraordinarily terroir-driven, he’s on a fabulous quest to reveal how the patchwork of soils impact what's in the glass. It’s fascinating winemaking, to say the least. A visit is guaranteed to be informative and insightful – but the appointment-only tastings are limited to those on the mailing list. However, joining is easy and free, and you probably want to get the newsletters anyway, since that’s where you will find out about limited releases and other interesting information.
Flat Rock Cellars
The glass-walled, hexagon-shaped winery sitting among the gentle slopes of the Twenty Mile Bench (a sub-appellation in the Niagara Escarpment), is a visitor’s beacon. On a clear day, the skyline of Toronto is visible from the veranda surrounding the tasting room where guests can grab a selfie between tastings of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. If I were you, I would book in for FRC’s unique Wine Maker’s Boots tour – an hour-long deep dive, led by one of the winemakers, into how a winery runs.
Thirty Bench
A small lot winery specializing in craft wines (though owned by the Peller corporation), Thirty Bench is charmingly understated. A small (by winery standards) wood structure houses the boutique and tasting room that offers educational tastings by appointment. With a terrific range of wines, I adore the Cabernet Franc that award-winning winemaker Emma Garner produces, and the Winemaker’s Red – a Bordeaux blend – has often been used as a seasonal, house pour here at TWS HQ.
Back 10 Cellars
You will fall in love with Christina and Andrew Brooks’ story of starting their humble winery from scratch. From using up all their savings (and then some) to buy a ramshackle plot, to learning the ropes of grape farming while fending off neighbours’ hungry goats, over the last decade or so, the Brooks’ have grown their small-winery-that-could into something of a destination for wine lovers in the know. With catchy names like “Blood, Sweat, and Years” Pinot Noir, to “Everything at Stake” Gamay, the once-newbie and inexperienced winemaker now turns out deeply delicious and captivating wines of class and substance. Enjoy them on Back 10's back patio or in the newly built pavilion in the vineyards.
Malivoire
The winery is a very cool structure centred on working in sync with the environment. From the landscaping that encourages native flora and fauna to cross pollinate the surrounding area, to the materials used to build the winery – it’s a “wow” moment when walking into the tasting room and seeing the glass ceiling unveiling towering, gravity flow wine tanks overhead. Elegant Chardonnay, spicy Gamay, and juicy rosé are just some of the delicious finds. On many weekends throughout the summer, there’s also local cheese mongers on site for your pairing pleasure. Dogs are welcome (on a leash) to join you in the tasting room or go for a stroll through the vineyard with a glass of wine.
Stratus
Sleek and urban, Stratus offers a bit of cosmopolitan style to the otherwise chateau-ish aesthetic of the winery-lined strip that leads visitors into downtown Niagara-on-the-Lake. LEED certified, Stratus proudly boasts it's one of the world's leading sustainable wineries and is an attraction for both architectural and wine lovers alike. The winery’s flagship wines are simply called, "Red," and "White" – blends of several different varietals that change in percentage from year to year, but Stratus winemaker, Dean Stoyka, also has fun pushing boundaries with single varietal, Niagara oddballs like Tannat, Sangiovese, and Tempranillo among others.
Wayne Gretzky Estates
Hockey fans, cocktail enthusiasts, and wine lovers will have a ton of fun at the Great One’s winery/distillery. The centrepiece of the impressively designed space is a reflective pool that turns into a skating rink (naturally) in the winter. An outdoor whisky bar features inventive cocktails, but perhaps my favourite offering is the creative cocktail classes aimed at inspiring and educating home bartenders. I did this with my parents and we all loved it.
Icellars Estate Winery
Lovers of Big Reds, this winery is for you. Owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Adnan and Elif Icel (which is how the winery name came to be: ICEL-lars, a riff on their last name, as opposed to a riff on the Apple products), who purchased 60 acres of prime vineyard in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation after coming to Canada from their native Turkey. Adnan, an engineer by trade, built the eco-focused winery with a vision to create wines “so big you need to chew them.” His sleek Cab Franc is among my favourite in the region, and the rich Bordeaux blends are not to be missed.
Queenston Mile Vineyard
Opening relatively quietly pre-Covid, this is the sister property to Creekside Winery. Specializing in high-end traditional method bubblies, along with still wines of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this chic winery has a ton of offerings to attract new visitors from dog-friendly wine tours to weekend brunches to lessons in sparkling wine – cleverly called “Let’s Get Fizzical.”
Restaurants
Because wine and food go together like rama lama ka dinga da dinga dong, you can’t go far in wine country without finding some spectacular places to eat. Some of these restaurants belong to wineries (which also allowed me to sneak in a few more winery stops) and some are stand-alone eateries, but all are worthy of repeated visits.
The Restaurant at Trius
Another Peller brand, this is one of the most romantic restaurant wineries in Niagara-on-the-Lake. With a sprawling summer patio overlooking the peaceful vineyards, and an airy, light-filled restaurant, with a wall of windows so inside diners also catch breathtaking vineyard views, Trius is a true feast for all the senses. Chef Frank Dodd keeps a seasonally-based, super local menu that constantly delights. Before dinner, take in a sparkling wine tour to see the impressive cellar lined with nearly half a million bottles of bubbly!
270 Bench Kitchen
I almost always start my trip at this fabulous eatery to carb-up for a day of tastings. A rotating menu of healthy and hearty sandwiches has line ups out the door, and gourmet, prepared items are perfect to grab-and-go for those of you staying at an Airbnb or planning a picnic along the Lake.
Vineland
Voted one of the Top 100 restaurants in Canada, this is an OG of upscale winery dining. Vineland Estates dates back to the 1800’s when it was a Mennonite farm, and the original structures still stand, with the restaurant is in what was the farmhouse. Known for producing zesty, vibrant Rieslings, enjoy a glass on the restaurant’s patio while taking in the sweeping views of rolling vineyards leading to Lake Ontario.
Pearl Morissette
Without a doubt, this restaurant remains one of my top dining experiences of all time. The carefully prepared food is creative and thoughtful and mercifully unpretentious, while the service (sometimes carried out by the chefs themselves) is genuine, warm, and welcoming. White walls, floor-to-ceiling windows, and rustic wood tables allow Niagara’s terroir to be the focus here – both in the view and on the plate. There is only a multi-course tasting menu that changes daily depending on what the chefs find from their small-scale local suppliers. Gratuity is also included for exceptional value. Reservations are definitely required.
Just Cooking
This unassuming Italian eatery can be easily overlooked as it’s unexpectedly located in a small strip plaza along King Street in Vineland. But don’t miss it: a superb menu and VQA-heavy wine list that is exceptionally well-priced makes it a destination for locals – it’s not uncommon to be seated next to a winemaker or winery owners, which makes for fun people watching.
Redstone Winery
The second Niagara property of Moray Tawse (his namesake winery being the first), Redstone opened to the public about a decade ago as both a terroir-centric winery and casual-luxe bistro that features soaring ceilings and wall-to-wall windows to frame the vineyard backdrop. A perfect stop to try out a glass of their organic and biodynamic, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, or Cabernet Sauvignon. At the time of this writing the restaurant is closed Mondays and Tuesdays, so double check hours, or make a reservation, to avoid disappointment.
Treadwell Cuisine
We always make a point of stopping at Treadwell's for at least one meal when we're in the area. Located in the heart of Niagara-on-the-Lake, the entrance is tucked a little back from the street. This quaint bistro owned by father-son team Stephen and James Treadwell, is always buzzing with both locals and tourists-in-the-know. There is a terrifically eclectic, Niagara-focused wine list with unique and hard-to-find bottles, and knowledgeable staff to help you pick out something perfect. The lobster club, served on duck-fat fried bread with local goat's cheese double smoked bacon, is worth every single calorie.
Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery
Ravine's farm-to-table winery restaurant offers country-chic, relaxed dining at its very best. Overlooking the estate’s organic vineyards that the family has farmed for five generations to make top-notch Chardonnay and Bordeaux-style reds, the restaurant has a true farm-to-table approach. The ever-changing menu features vegetables and pigs grown on the estate. The culinary team also jars and cans their sauces and produce so guests can purchase the components of the dish they just enjoyed in the restaurant to take home with them.
Ruffino’s Pasta Bar and Grill
The latest incarnation of Chef Ryan Crawford, Ruffino’s is found in a strip plaza in NOTL. The unlikely location hasn’t stopped locals from filling the place nightly for fresh, handmade pasta and pizza, adorned with produce grown on Crawford’s home farm. A serious wine enthusiast, Crawford has also created an intriguing wine list balanced between local gems and global finds.
Bolete
A few years ago, the city of St Catharines underwent a much-needed upgrade, and Bolete was one of the first eateries to add a bit pizazz to the downtown strip. Seven-ish years later, locals are still buzzing about Chef-owner Andrew McLeod’s innovative and modern-Canadian cuisine.
Wellington Court
Wellington Court has been a staple of wine country casual-fine dining for more than 20 years. Located in downtown St Catharines just minutes from the vineyards of wine country, the restaurant started as a cafe in the 80’s by Chef Erik Peacock’s mother, and he took over the kitchen in the early 90’s, growing Wellington Court into the popular restaurant it is now.
Kitchen 76 at Two Sisters
Kitchen 76 at Two Sisters Vineyards is an Italian indulgence of the very best kind. Stuff yourself silly on wood fired pizzas, house-made pastas, and freshly baked focaccia. Comfy tables give luxurious space to diners soaking up the beautiful majesty of the impressive room. An added bonus for wine lovers looking to splurge on a few of the Two Sisters’ ultra-premium, small lot Bordeaux-styled reds or crisp white wines is the ability to purchase table side. The attentive staff will package the bottles, deliver them to your table, and have it added to the bill.
Hotels
Niagara is an Airbnb and traditional B n’B dream scape. I did stay once in a large house that we found on Airbnb that was incredibly charming, but mostly when I go to Niagara, I’m a hotel girl.
Oban Inn
Before the lock down, this was the hotel I frequented the most in NOTL. A gorgeous spot that’s a real destination for catered hospitality intended for an adult clientele. Modern, inviting rooms, an award-winning spa, and excellent dining room with friendly staff and a creative kitchen all make for a stay worthy of romantic sojourns and girls' weekends. While the hotel does not expressly exclude children, the focus is on the sophisticated interests of adults looking to relax.
124 on Queen Hotel and Spa
One of my last visits to NOTL had me spending the night at this high-end hotel. It was still under renovation when I was there last year (which they advised me off when booking), which had me strangely going through a closed restaurant to reach my room, but it added to the fun and whimsy of the weekend. I think renos are now complete or at least very close to done. Construction or not, the rooms are spacious, modern, airy, and amenities carefully considered.
Harbour House
A 4-Diamond property located across from the marina for wistful views, Habour House artfully blends luxury with small town charm. With complimentary afternoon wine and cheese pairings, special treats for your four-legged friends, and seasonal wine country packages, Harbour House is at once comfy and elegant.
Pillar and Post
Tucked a few blocks aways from the main strip, The Pillar and Post Inn is so charming, some locals suggest a few guests have never left (as is noted in the book, Ghosts of Niagara-on-the-Lake). Originally a cannery built in the 1800’s, the stately hotel features 122 rooms decorated in comfortable, modern, country-chic – complete with exposed beams and brick. An indoor pool, as well as a heated, year-round outdoor pool, offer a nice little retreat to take a break from a day of tastings and tours.