How to Host a Leisurely Lunch
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Sunshine-filled days inspire long lunches of rambling conversation, refills of wine, and casual, multi-coursed meals.
by Erin Henderson
I was going to title this blog, In Praise of Lunch.
Whereas I think lunch is often overlooked by many party planners, it's my favourtie meal for celebratory occasions. Maybe my love of the mid-day revellery was inspired by my German Oma, who would host holidays and weekend get togethers over a long and lingering lunch. Perhaps it's because I'm a lady of a certain age, who has a healthy apprehension of staying out past 10pm. Either way, I think lunch, and daytime soirees in general, are the unsung hero of festivity.
There’s just something so rewardingly indulgent and utterly joyous about lunches. Sunshine seems to loosen the reigns of formality, inspiring a natural air of relaxed luxury. Guests arrive excited, energized, and happy, and leave satisfied, relaxed, and fulfilled – at a suitable late-afternoon hour that allows time for cleaning up, sobering up, and a decent bedtime so the next day is just as bright as the first.
But there is a bit of an art when it comes to the pacing of a long lunch. Just like a marathoner at the start of a race, if you give it all you’ve got when the starting pistol sounds, you’ll hit the wall 10 kilometres in (or two, if you’re anything like me.)
What you must do is set a steady momentum for yourself, in both food and drink, so you can leave the table, hours later, upright, intact, and with dignity.
That said, this is not the three-martini lunch of the Mad Men era. While alcohol is a necessary companion piece to this affair, it’s a matter of balance and breadth. I like to start easy: a snappy sparkling wine, light cocktail, or crisp white wine can all work as appetite-inducing aperitifs.
When it comes to the meal, build into a richer white, perhaps follow by a red, and finally, just like my childhood memories suggest, end the afternoon with an impressive digestif as a spectacular coup de grâce.
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Let's begin…
I think there's something so dazzling about greeting your guests with a glass of bubbly at the door, its sets the tone of an extraordinary affair and heightens expectations for a marvellous experience.
A casually elegant buffet of light bites freshly shucked oysters, bagna càuda, poached shrimp, or a simple selection of pistachios, olives, and kettle chips, allows everyone to help themselves as the mix and mingle.
First course…
As you transition from nibbles to the meal, this is the time for more structured, but still easy-going starters. Think in-season vegetable soups and colourful salads to begin.
As for the wine, part of picking a great one is the conversation it inspires. Bottles from unfamiliar places, or obscure grapes, or quirky producers can all motivate intriguing conversation.
Pasta
I love Italians' approach to pasta as a warm-up to the main course, not the main course itself. Three or four small raviolis, or a half-cup twirl of linguine is enough to satisfy the carb-craving, but not have your head bobbing in a drowsy carb-coma. My mouth still waters at a memory of a spectacular lunch in Soave that started with a game bird-stuffed tortelloni, decorated with pomegranate arils and served in a barely-there buttery sage sauce. Select an equally weighty white wine, such as Gavi, Semillon, or Chardonnay, with silky texture and bold flavours.
Seafood
As the clock ticks forward and the sun progresses through the sky, courses become more substantial, but still light. Remember, when it comes to long and meandering meals, the key is to tease the taste buds enough to please, but not so much that you need to undo your pants (FYI, that's considered an etiquette no-no). Flavourful options like smoked salmon, tuna tartare, or fritto misto with fresh lemon all make for a beautiful chapter in this novel of a lunch. Surprisingly, light bodied reds with some tangy acidity can be beautiful with richer fish dishes. Pick a wine with juicy red fruit and low tannin, such as Etna Rosso from Sicily, or Chinon from Loire, for an unexpected pairing.
Main course
Now, we wow them. Bring out the roasts or grilled meats. Showstoppers like slow-roasted porchetta, long-braised osso buco, or grilled Tomahawk rib eye are the crescendo of this culinary journey. To wrestle down the fat-laced proteins, we need an equally powerful red wine that has weight and solid tannic structure. This is where California Cabs, Barolos, and Super Tuscans all shine.
Cheese
In Europe, cheese is the traditional follow-up to the main course. A simple trick to pairing wine with cheese is to consider what else you might add to the cheese board and then mimic the flavours. For example, you might be compelled to pair fresh berries or a jammy spread with your cheese. In that case, a low-tannin, juicy red wine such as Pinot Noir, Gamay, or Barbera would make a terrific pairing.
Dessert
We’ve made it! We now bring out a tray of digestifs, espresso, dark chocolate squares, perhaps a few scoops of gelato, and wind the meal down to a gentle and contented stop. If you still have it in you, consider a dram of Scotch, or an espresso martini.